Inside OVERDUE’s London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 24

Léa Noël

Lon­don Fash­ion Week A/W24 has come to an end and it’s time for OVER­DUE’s sea­son­al roundup and cel­e­brate estab­lished or emerg­ing labels which stood out for us. From cat­walks to pre­sen­ta­tions, the even­t’s 40th anniver­sary has been cel­e­brat­ed, and well.

Momonary

Momonary make their Lon­don Fash­ion Week debut in col­lab­o­ra­tion with 3M with their Autumn/Winter 2024 “Map­pa Mun­di” cat­walk show on Thurs­day Feb­ru­ary 15^th at 5pm open­ing the five day show and event sched­ule. Through this col­lab­o­ra­tion, sci­ence is applied to fash­ion design bring­ing inno­va­tion to the cat­walk – 3M inno­va­tions allow Momonary to express them­selves cre­ative­ly with­out com­pro­mis­ing on util­i­ty. Over 40% of the looks to be shown on the cat­walk at the Momonary Autumn/Winter 2024 col­lec­tion are cre­at­ed in col­lab­o­ra­tion with 3M incor­po­rat­ing 3M™ Thun­su­late™ inno­va­tions for warmth, breatha­bil­i­ty, and light­ness. 

The col­lec­tion draws inspi­ra­tion from car­tog­ra­phy and the spir­it of adven­ture. We imag­ine a fear­less Momonary explo­ration team adorned in ele­ment-resilient uni­forms, embark­ing on a bound­ary-push­ing jour­ney beyond the edges of the map and into new and wild unchar­tered places. 

Momonary is a con­tem­po­rary wom­enswear brand found­ed in 2019 by Zeng Yue and Fu Fand­ing and based between Shang­hai and Lon­don. Momonary is about expres­sion and move­ment, free­dom and com­fort; they pro­pose a fresh fem­i­nin­i­ty, one which is at once girl­ish yet fear­less. Through col­lab­o­ra­tion with 3M mate­r­i­al inno­va­tions, Momonary are able to realise this vision with gar­ments com­bin­ing lib­er­at­ing light­ness, with dura­bil­i­ty and warmth. Momonary design for tac­til­i­ty recog­nis­ing the impor­tant of phys­i­cal touch and con­tact with the skin as a bal­ance to an increas­ing­ly dig­i­talised lifestyle. Soft­ness against the skin, struc­ture against the body, and the warmth and pro­tec­tion from the ele­ments afford­ed by 3M™ Thin­su­late™ technology. 

THE LOBBY | PR

MITHRIDATE

In a medi­ae­val and atmos­pher­ic set­ting, Mithridate’s Autumn/Winter 2024 col­lec­tion Vita Aeter­na, was brought to life. This sea­son, Cre­ative Direc­tor, Demon Zhang, explores themes of indi­vid­ual exis­tence and diverse forms of coex­is­tence between humans and nature in three parts: Time, Iden­ti­ty and Fate. 

Open­ing with the con­cept of Time, promi­nent themes include thick vel­vets, metal­lic coat­ings, bejew­elled embroi­dery and three dimen­sion­al flo­rals. Fol­lowed by Iden­ti­ty, draw­ing its cre­ativ­i­ty from mys­te­ri­ous marine crea­tures flood­ed with crim­son, coral pink and rose gold with leather weav­ing, hand cut flow­ers, chain hard­ware and detailed rhine­stone embell­ish­ments. The final con­cept, Fate, focus­es on cool moon­light tones that mir­ror shat­tered glass, seam­less­ly inte­grat­ing sur­re­al ele­ments into con­tem­po­rary fash­ion whilst con­tem­plat­ing the bound­aries of fan­ta­sy and fate. 

The brand con­tin­ues to embrace the “More is More,” spir­it, with Mithridate’s icon­ic Moth motif thread­ed through­out via pat­tern, acces­sories and shape. Mean­while, ele­ments such as juniper, bee­tles, coral and bees, are skill­ful­ly inte­grat­ed into the stitch­ing with both inno­v­a­tive and arti­san tech­niques, as well as mim­ic­k­ing the human body, form­ing a metaphor­i­cal rep­re­sen­ta­tion of the com­plex con­nec­tion between the body, nature and life.

Cre­ative Direc­tor: Demon Zhang
Styling & Cast­ing: Gary David Moore
Pro­duc­tion: Sophie M Pro­duc­tions
Run­way Pho­tog­ra­ph­er: Jason Lloyd Evans
CP Con­cept PR

JU-NNA

JU-NNA, the Japan­ese-British wom­enswear brand, con­tin­ues to recon­tex­tu­al­ize tra­di­tion­al craft. The upcom­ing Autumn Win­ter 2024 col­lec­tion draws inspi­ra­tion from Japan­ese street pho­tog­ra­phy doc­u­ment­ing drunk and exhaust­ed work­ers sprawled across Tokyo’s streets. This season’s col­lec­tion delves into the dichoto­my of exhaus­tion and pro­fes­sion­al­ism. The run­way comes alive with pieces that seam­less­ly blend ele­ments of weari­ness with a dis­tinct sense of purpose.

The colour palette, care­ful­ly curat­ed from city land­scapes of our nar­ra­tive, aims to blend indi­vid­u­als into the monot­o­nous greys. From the twist­ed and fold­ed tai­lor­ing to the play­ful yet undone aes­thet­ic, each gar­ment is embed­ded with the jux­ta­pos­ing nar­ra­tive of pro­fes­sion­al­ism and exhaustion.

Fab­rics range from Shi­bori-dyed silk jer­sey to tra­di­tion­al wool coats, an ease of mix­ing moder­ni­ty and tra­di­tion. Stain­less steel tie pins are uti­lized as embell­ish­ments, fem­i­niz­ing the clas­si­cal­ly mas­cu­line acces­sories. Empha­sized and ver­ti­cal diag­o­nal lines are used to cre­ate the harsh lines seen in cor­po­rate architecture.

Black PR

Rocky Star

Rocky Star was estab­lished in 1995 with a mis­sion to cre­ate rel­e­vant, lux­u­ry cou­ture for the ever-evolv­ing glob­al women and men of today. Ever since, the brand has devel­oped and cre­at­ed a self-sus­tain­ing unit with in-house skilled mas­ter crafts­men and arti­sans who breathe life into every piece they pas­sion­ate­ly design.

Rocky Star focus­es on cut, com­fort, fit, and fin­ish that trans­forms into haute cou­ture, bridal, lux­u­ry pret and acces­sories for women and men. The brand is ded­i­cat­ed to the vision of cre­at­ing fash­ion that is as con­tem­po­rary as it is root­ed and as ele­gant as it is innovative.

This sea­son, Rocky Star’s “Moon­light Enig­ma” Autumn/Winter 24/25 col­lec­tion draws inspi­ra­tion from the fear­less Vikings and the cap­ti­vat­ing mys­tique of the Nordic region. Designed for women who exude both pow­er and sen­su­al­i­ty, exquis­ite pieces effort­less­ly blend ele­ments with time­less ele­gance. Lux­u­ri­ous sil­hou­ettes embell­ished with sequin embroi­dery, metal­lic tex­tures, and the brand’s sig­na­ture botan­i­cal prints cap­ture the essence of luxury. 

Black PR

Jack Irv­ing

Now in its 22nd year, On|Off con­tin­ues to sup­port cre­ative inno­va­tion and push bound­aries through fash­ion, tech­nol­o­gy and art. AW24 sees a re-charged col­lab­o­ra­tion with artist and design­er, Jack Irv­ing show­cas­ing his work of wear­able inflat­able art sculp­tures through a cre­ative live instal­la­tion ‘AMPHITRITE’.

Set at Spi­tal­fields E1, the cre­ative con­cept is based on a sub­ter­ranean aquat­ic under­world with the dis­cov­er­ies of a new alien species set in a back­drop of an aban­doned pow­er plant in the ocean. Over the years, the sea com­bined with elec­tro­mag­net­ic ener­gy has been har­ness­ing and cre­at­ing new hybrid alien life forms. The sta­t­ic atmos­phere is giv­ing elec­tric radio waves like that of a nuclear reac­tor or pow­er­plant. This strange, bizarre atom­ic envi­ron­ment com­bined with the ener­gy of water is a per­fect storm to birth alien hybrid life forms, the pow­er of two ele­ments col­lid­ing. The view­er is dis­cov­er­ing these crea­tures for the first time as a new world discovery.

Mod­els on rotat­ing plat­forms show­case three inflat­able alien cre­ations in aqua hues with a splash of chrome reflect­ing the elec­tro­mag­net­ic theme and explo­sion of energy.

Sarah Mor­ton PR

Mal­one Souliers

Syn­ony­mous with endur­ing style, Mal­one Souliers’ AW24 col­lec­tion pays homage to mid-cen­tu­ry Ital­ian design. The peri­od between the 1940s and ‘60s saw the rise of archi­tects and design­ers, such as Gio Pon­ti, Car­lo Scarpa, and Gae Aulen­ti, whose sem­i­nal cre­ations remain icon­ic today. The use of clean lines, con­trast­ing mate­ri­als – such as wood, met­al, and glass – and a raw, earthy colour palette inspires the collection.

Avenue Com­mu­ni­ca­tions