Words Natalie Yuksel
As the front row twitches with anticipation for the show to start, the first look is not as expected. Instead of a model formation of swaying hips, we are met with a man, walking, jittering in movement, almost hobbling, our curiosity is piqued. Is this some independent designer? No, what proceeds is a hybrid of art and fashion, with a contemporary dance presentation, choreographed by Beatriz Mira, with models dancing in unison, dancing clusters, arranging formation, climbing up walls, and pivoting on the spot. It is at the same time, emotional, captivating and certainly unexpected. But this isn’t the show of an upcoming designer. This is actually a presentation of Portuguese Soul, a communication channel representing the Portuguese footwear industry, an initiative of APICCAPS, showcasing a selection of Portuguese shoes from the brands and designers they work with.
APICCAPS is the beating pulse of the Portuguese footwear industry, acting as its national industry association and international promotion body. It does not manufacture footwear itself, but represents and coordinates the sector, including producers, brands, and component companies. It also supports industrial development, innovation and export strategy for the ecosystem. Supported by various European Union funds, APICCAPS is an association with multiple functions, which include innovation and investing in technology, for example, developing intricate 3‑D embroidery printing and innovation in materials, such as developing soft biodegradable fabrics and vegetable dyes which are kinder to the environment.
There is also a transmission element to what APICCAPS do — going into schools, from primary through to secondary school. Sharing knowledge and enticing creativity by assigning projects, such as, create a shoe using only sustainable items. Aside from the fun element, this process is important as it informs the students of the variety of different jobs that exist inthe footwear industry, from technology to operations, in turn piquing the interest of the future talent of the Portuguese footwear industry.
APICCAPS also works closely with independent designers and manufacturers, offering guidance and support across both creative and production processes, meaning a designer can come with an existing idea or no clear direction at all and be supported through the Portuguese footwear industry network, from concept to production.

