15 Years of Jacquemus: The Celebratory Show ‘La Casa’

Dig­i­tal Fash­ion Edi­tor, Eve Fitz­patrick

Imagery, Cour­tesy of Jacquemus

Jacque­mus was found­ed by Simon Porte Jacque­mus in 2009 in Paris, France. To mark the huge 15 year mile­stone tri­umphant­ly reached this sum­mer, the brand have show­cased a cel­e­bra­to­ry col­lec­tion, explor­ing themes we’ve seen exist deep with­in the brand through its past.

Through­out the years, Jacque­mus has staged run­way pro­duc­tions in such unex­pect­ed loca­tions as a Parisian swim­ming pool or inside the Musée Picas­so, wind­ing through a laven­der field in Provence or a wheat field out­side of Paris, a salt marsh in Camar­gue, a beach in Hawaii, and at The Château de Versailles. 

After his most recent show ‘Les Sculp­tures’, Jacque­mus arrives at this 15th anniver­sary col­lec­tion. A panoram­ic explo­ration of essen­tial forms: min­i­mal­ist geo­met­rics, clas­si­cal greek drap­ing — rad­i­cal­ly tran­scribed, the purest pos­si­ble. Fresh sil­hou­ettes sig­nal a dual­i­ty, where archi­tec­tur­al shapes emerge with absolute light­ness and sensuality.

Sub­lime with the slight­est sur­re­al­ist touch, the wom­enswear is tai­lored exquis­ite­ly to the body, with jer­sey cas­cad­ing, a low-cut back curv­ing around the waist, and the body reveal­ing through sheer fab­ric like a lay­er of water. Con­struct­ed jack­ets are self-con­tained state­ments with angled por­trait col­lars and pre­cise pan­elling. Those in bond­ed suede have edges paint­ed and hand-fin­ished. The flounced brim of a sun hat is trans­posed to the tor­so while exag­ger­at­ed a‑line skirts and a con­toured, flow­ing busti­er dress high­light dif­fer­ent ways to frame the figure.

The menswear encap­tures a chic yet play­ful pol­ish. Suits appear with graph­ic zebra stripes, while ensem­bles are giv­en curv­ing out­lines and defined waists. Oth­er famil­iar pieces are recon­sid­ered: scoop­ing tanks, loos­er pants, front-pleat shorts, airy boat­necks and trousers in crisp, dark denim.

Ref­er­ences to the Ital­ian writer and film­mak­er Curzio Mala­parte’s home are felt with­in the col­lec­tion and set­ting, as well as Jean-Luc Godard­’s film Le Mépris — from the floor tiles as an artis­tic motif to the intense capri blue, expres­sive red, shades of yel­low and bright sage that ani­mate the mono­chro­mat­ic scheme.