Words Adrian Glass
The UK fashion industry owes so much to its early 1980s designers, that emerged, mostly in London to set down a distinctively original take on the Do-it-Yourself ethic, in fact so dynamic was their enthusiasm at that time, by the mid 80’s their styles and limited ranges were eagerly snapped up by the Americans on a impromptu promotional tour in 1986 to New York City by the likes of Betty Jackson, Katherine Hamnett, John Galliano and the innovative duo of Bodymap: Stevie Stewart and David Holah. Even in the late 1970s when Vivienne Westwood began to cut and reshape clothing to fit a cold war resonance of post punk sensibilities, prior to the mid 80s fashion explosion. The collective creativity of the London scene still shines through to this day and appears to be equally respectful of its roots and influence.
And the emerging designer Charles Jeffrey of his brand Loverboy is no exception to the vivaciousness that was the 80s London club/fashion vibe, to point of reliving its variations of dynamics. Whilst paying homage to that special time in UK fashion, Jeffrey, upon moving from his native Scotland (Glasgow) to London while studying at Central Saint Martins, also launched a club, named in its appropriate manner: Loverboy.
For his Fall 2020 men’s wear show, Jeffrey’s theatrical stylizations remain poignant, offering more of a glimpse at his social awareness, in light of climate change issues and the rise of sustainable fashion. Yet, specifically from an aesthetic sense, his 2020 Loverboy collection, conscious or not, is paying a lot of respect to Vivienne Westwood’s 1980s runway shows, with a snapshot of her frolicsome “Mini-Crini” collection of 85′. In representing the backlogged time-line when the finer tailoring began to take shape moving further into the 1990s, to which Jeffrey’s latest collection follows suit. There is also the playfulness and sensibilities that UK designers are renown for, within the seemingly sombre stage show before and after the viewed collection. Of a dark and hollowed out tree, in representing the destruction of the natural environment. Jeffrey’s has also expressed, for his latest collection, a costumed festival feel, in his seriousness of changing fashion’s practice, particularly the waste created by its industries.
The Loverboy collection via Jeffrey’s imprint in socially creating an awareness of the changing climate, he also wrote a manifesto, which was revealed as a press release for the London show. Detailing the process to which his 2020 Fall collection was put together, in an impassioned way that Loverboy, as a brand, will maintain an effort in reducing its carbon footprint.